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Nahari: Enterprising Tribal Women Popularise Tribal Cuisine

Nahari: Enterprising Tribal Women Popularise Tribal Cuisine

Authors : BAIF Development Research Foundation

Across India, women face the problem of being underemployed. They work through the day, from dusk to dawn, with little to no remuneration. The problem is even more acute in tribal areas where women have limited opportunities to explore their abilities, be it education or employment. This results in multiple deprivations, including poor nutrition, ill health, and limited agency, among others.

As part of a landmark project by the BAIF Development Research Foundation in the early 2000s, it emerged that the tribal belt of Gujarat had a treasure trove in terms of wild edible plants. Moreover, the women had rich knowledge regarding indigenous foods and recipes. However, this knowledge was diminishing under development pressures and as more people resorted to distress migration.

To create pride in indigenous cuisine and boost the confidence of these tribal women, some enterprising women’s Self-Help Groups (SHGs) were encouraged to sell catered meals at food festivals, a major tribal festival at Dang the ‘Dang Darbar,’ and other local fairs. Buoyed by the success of their maiden ventures, the SHGs were encouraged to set up permanent stalls called Nahari, aimed at serving traditional food and cuisine influenced by the culture and traditions of the region. Nahari means ‘food’ in the Kukna dialect, which is spoken locally in the tribal belt of South Gujarat. Starting from one Nahari in 2006, today, there are 12 such outlets spread across different districts of Gujarat. Located at strategic locations, they are managed by tribal women SHGs.

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